4 Days in Los Angeles
There’s a major advantage to visiting Los Angeles over the Thanksgiving holiday.
Fact: most people who live in LA, aren’t actually from there. The “transplants” as LA natives call them head back to Wherever Hometown, USA. Which means that us visitors get to enjoy the touristy spots without the crowds, get from one end of the city to the other sans LA’s infamous traffic, and eat at top restaurants minus the waitlist. A recurring theme throughout the trip was this uncharacteristic tranquility and ease, allowing us to pause, take in the surroundings, and appreciate where we were.
So what that SoCal’s typical 70s and sunny dropped to 50s and rainy, just in time for the long weekend? At least weather doesn’t impact ones ability to eat, and food is truly where LA shines. I cannot stress this enough. So like any good planner I had boatloads of backup activities in the archives, so I revised the itinerary accordingly, rethought the entire packing list (bye summer clothes), and off we went.
Deciding Where to Stay
Airbnb is my go-to for a few reasons. Typically prices are much better than hotels, and therefore you can stay in nicer neighborhoods and better quality spaces for the same price as a meh hotel. For this trip I wanted to feel a little luxe, it is LA after all, and also stay somewhere walkable, preferably near a beach. We chose Venice, a beachfront neighborhood that’s laid back, eclectic, tastefully hipster, and most importantly, boasts a prominent food scene.
Once the location was nailed down, I jumped into Airbnb to find our temporary nest and discovered that the LA area offers Airbnb Plus. If you’re unfamiliar with Airbnb Plus (not to be confused with Airbnb Luxe, my travel funds aren’t there yet), these homes are only offered in select cities, are thoughtfully designed with generally nicer, upgraded features, and have been inspected and verified by Airbnb for quality. In comparing pricing with standard Airbnb homes there was maybe a $100 difference, so upgrade we did. 5 nights, $1,100 total, $220/night. Sold.
Getting Around
LA County has a very expansive footprint, so how you get around really depends on what you plan to do while you’re there. Since we’d be there Thanksgiving Day, I knew having a rental for at least that day would be our best option for hopping around freely. The rest of the weekend we were fine getting around with Lyft (tip: much cheaper than Uber!).
This trip was my first time experimenting with Turo, which I like to describe as ‘Airbnb for cars.’ Through this app you can rent other peoples cars for weeks, or even just a few hours. Don’t worry, you can include insurance in your package and they have a whole process for making it as kosher as staying in other people’s homes. We chose Turo because it allowed us to get a nicer ride for the same price as your average economy rental. So upgrade we did again, to a 2010 Lexus convertible that I was damn sure planning to drive up the Pacific Coast Highway in, top down. Alas, weather had other plans and instead we capitalized on the heated seats. But for $55 for a full day, it was totally worth it. And let me add that in 2010, Lexus was wayyyy ahead of their time.
The 4-Day LA Itinerary
Day 1: Thanksgiving (in the rain)
BREAKFAST Blu Jam Cafe, Brentwood // We were lucky that this was one of the few brunch spots open on Thanksgiving Day, and also damn good. Plus they offer two for one drink specials for your first hour, so I mean yes please and thank you.
EXPLORE Malibu via the Pacific Coast Highway // My original plan was to kick off the day with a hike, take a lunch intermission, and then explore and relax at some of Malibu’s beaches. Instead of living the sun-kissed dream, we strapped into our rain coats and hit the Pacific Coast Highway in our convertible (top up), making a few stops along the way. We strolled Malibu Pier, popping into Malibu Farms for an early cocktail–they also serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
Continuing up the coast, we checked out Point Dume and would have liked to spend more time here but the dampness and windchill had us beat (tip: I hear this is an awesome sunset spot in good weather). Regardless of the elements, there was so much to appreciate in the simple act of driving the PCH–the rolling dessert hills, the rocky coastline with crashing waves and crazy surfers with no concern for raw, rainy days. If you have the chance to do this rain or shine, do.
EXPLORE Downtown Santa Monica // Santa Monica has some standard things you have to check off your list. Start at the Santa Monica Pier and revel in all its random glory, with the majestic Malibu hills in the backdrop. But dear god please don’t eat there.
From here it’s easy to walk through Palisades Park and over to the 3rd Street Promenade. I’m not a shopper, but this outdoor mall with a range of stores and restaurants is worth a walk through. We enjoyed checking out trendy sneakers at Nike we can’t afford.
LUNCH C&O Trattoria, Venice // In an effort to warm our touristy bones, and in the spirit of Thanksgiving, we went straight Italian comfort food just off the Venice Pier. C&O offers tons of familiar and unfamiliar pasta dishes, there is a constant flow of fresh-out-the-oven garlic bread knots, and they aren’t shy with their freshly grated parmesan. We split one pasta entree and that alone was plenty filling for two. Tip: eat the knots slowly and use them to soak up your pasta. Service is quick to refill and then boom, you’ve eaten 10. After lunch you can walk off your knotty calories on the Venice Pier and Boardwalk.
DINNER Zinqué, Venice // One of the only places not requiring a three-course meal commitment, and with promising reviews, was Zinqué. First of all, I no longer know that there’s a better way to do Thanksgiving other than with French small plates. The menu was filled with sophisticated and intriguing plates and cocktails (spicy margarita was magnifique), and the service was both friendly and entertaining. Tip: sit at the bar for playful banter with a real-life Frenchman.
Day 2: Theme Park Dreams
BREAKFAST Urth Caffe, Venice // A day at Universal calls for proper fueling. And this. Place. Is. CRACK. My first time in LA I was introduced to Urth’s divine breakfast and green tea boba (thanks @carlaabb & @got__melk) and have never found a comparable bubble tea since. It took everything in me not to come here four consecutive days–we settled on two for research’s sake. Tip: there is nothing typical about their breakfast sandwich. A fine work of art that will give you a whole new outlook on breakfast sandwiches.
VISIT Hollywood Universal Studios // If you love the feeling of your heart in your throat, or are still waiting for your letter to Hogwarts, this is is the place for you. BUT unless the idea of waiting 45 minutes for a 10 minute ride is your jam, buy the Universal Express pass. For months Groupon has been offering this for $189 (originally $250). So, so worth the extra $80ish. We were able to conquer most of the park in about 5 hours, never waiting in line longer than 5 minutes.
One bonus treat you get visiting Universal around Christmas time is the Grinchmas attraction–a visit to Whoville really kicks up the holiday spirit. And park secret: the exit ramp of the Simpsons Ride is where you’ll find one of best (and quietest) views of the surrounding mountain scape.
EXPLORE Venice Beach // After the park we continued to take advantage of the sunny afternoon with some Venice exploration. Starting with a meander through the Venice Canals, you can then bounce over to the Venice Boardwalk. This is for sure one of the top people watching destinations of the US–a true random cluster of humans, trinkets, and 1000 calorie beach snacks. Ultimately you can plant yourself at an oceanfront restaurant (with a heat lamp in our case), and sip on cocktails while the sun retires over the Pacific.
DINNER The Butcher’s Daughter, Venice // Four non-vegetarians told me about this all vegetarian spot on Venice’s trendy Abbot Kinney Boulevard. Talk about creative. Their food is so dimensional and satisfying, I can see why it’s easy for carnivores to overlook the “meatless” aspect. The jackfruit “crab cake” had us fooled. Go let them trick you, I promise you’ll enjoy it.
Day 3: A Little Bit of Everything
BREAKFAST Cafe Gratitude, Venice // This 100% vegan restaurant was as crunchy granola as it gets, in the best way. What they lack in alcohol (which we were fine with taking a break from) they make up for in fresh pressed juices and smoothies. If yoga was a restaurant it would be Cafe Gratitude–as good for your spirit as it is your body. We left here rejuvenated and ready to really grab the day by the… hand.
VISIT Getty Center, Brentwood // It was another wet day, so we took to the Getty Center for a cultural indoor experience. Full transparency, I’m less than knowledgeable in the art space. But beyond just art and artifacts, the architecture and panoramic a city views from this giant campus make it worth a visit. If you are into art, they have a Manet exhibit on display through January 2020 (yes I did look and appreciate to my best ability), and esteemed collections rotate in every several months.
LUNCH Gjelina, Venice // For a few reasons, this was one of my favorites of the trip. Mostly it was the insanely fresh, unique dishes. As someone who’s pretty food literate I was unfamiliar with a good handful of ingredients on the menu. Plus, there was something comfortable and calming about the dim, rustic atmosphere and three glasses of crisp, Italian white wine I forgot to write down the name of. Here we found ourselves melting into our seats for hours, and dare I say feeling true relaxation.
DINNER Bavel, Downtown // The 10/10 food day continued with dinner in the Arts District (thanks @wilmerinspace for getting us setup with a reservation). Bavel is what I would call “a vibe.” It’s the spot you go before you’re about to have a really good night out. Toronto-inspired music (aka lots of Drake), service with great energy (<3 you Julio), and the food, oh the food. I’ll never turn down the opportunity for some good middle eastern cuisine, and this place was tops.
NIGHT OUT Multiple stops // For our last night we wanted to embrace our late 20s and go “out,” but avoid the superficial, trying-too-hard scene. First stop: Broken Shaker, a nearby rooftop bar in Downtown. Given the weather (and the fact that it was only 10pm) it was pretty quiet, but we stuck around for a drink and some skyline views. Satisfied by our city fix, we headed back towards the beach to The Bungalow. This place is the adult equivalent of going to the rich kid’s house party. The venue is made up of different rooms with rich leather couches and dim lighting, and there’s an outdoor patio and bar with fire pits and seating. Bonus points for the strong pour.
Day 4: Back to Malibu
HIKE Solstice Canyon, Malibu // As difficult as it was to leave our second and final breakfast at Urth, the weather finally breached 60 degrees, so we peeled away for outdoor adventure. Malibu in all its fame and beauty offers tons of hiking trails. I chose Solstice Canyon for the views. The trail was super windy–up then down then up again. You actually had no idea where you’d land. And every corner delighted with waterfalls and creeks, ruins (yes ruins), and ocean views. In total, after several stops to absorb the scenery, it was about a 3.5-4 hour loop.
VISIT The Getty Villa, Malibu // On your way back towards low land, take a pit stop at the Getty Villa. Inspired by ancient Roman architecture, this place is the definition of ‘grammable’. So much rich color in the impeccable landscaping and intricately designed spaces. Makes you want to sit for hours and read a book, dressed in your Sunday best. Also worth noting that this museum houses Greek and Roman art and artifacts that are definitely worth perusing.
DINNER The Misfit, Santa Monica // Every time I write about somewhere we ate I think THIS was my favorite place. But after serious reflection, I’m pretty certain this truly was my favorite meal. Plus, they had $5 off select cocktails, beers, and wines for happy hour (5-7pm). Couldn’t beat this send off for our final hours in town.
In 4 days we covered a lot of ground, despite the atypical rain.
What I came to really appreciate from this trip is that Los Angeles, with its many landscapes and character, is sneaky beautiful no matter the weather. More so, that it’s good to have a backup plan and a flexible schedule. And in the midst of all the Thanksgiving reflection, I was most grateful for the ability to get to the west coast and eat tons insanely good food, all in the company of my favorite travel partner.
Have any questions, or looking to plan a vacation to Los Angeles? Happy to lend thoughts or direction–you know where to find me!
